567891011121 2 3 4Keeping Traditions AliveJapan is one of the foremost countries in the world for ceramics; one estimate suggests that there are more than 4,000 kilns. These days, it’s not uncommon for pottery lovers visiting from abroad to plan their travel itineraries around ceramic towns and kilns. They see items being made first-hand, find one-of-a-kind pieces to bring home, and—best of all—get to meet with the artists themselves. at papermaking using a fine-meshed screen. Once you’ve scooped up the fibers from their watery solution, the chal-lenge is to distribute them evenly across the screen, building up layers through repeated rhythmic shaking and dipping. Succeed, and you can bring home your original sheet of paper that day.the city of Aizuwakamatsu after the 2011 disasters. Later, they expressed their gratitude and goodwill toward the city by uniting a traditional Aizuwakamatsu handicraft—the roly-poly toy—with Okuma’s star mascot, Ochan the bear. (“Okuma” is written with characters that mean “big bear.”) The bright novelties are an endearing symbol of Fukushima’s handicrafts coming back strong.In the town of Namie, several kilns maintain the local pottery tradition that goes by the name of Oborisoma— or sometimes Soma—ware. One kiln, Tokichiro, traces its origins back to the eighteenth century. Today it is run by father and son Manabu and Takashi Kondo. After the 2011 disasters, the Kondos shifted their production from the Obori district of Namie to Iwaki, setting up a new kiln and a gallery with an eye-catching array of items. Manabu creates contemporary pieces using the zogan inlay technique, in which he renders intricate patterns and images by inserting clays of different color into the body surface. Takashi’s creations, too, are modern in form. The blues and whites he yields with glass-like celadon glazes are especially lovely. “Most people equate traditional Soma ware with its paintings of horses,” says Manabu. “But a lesser-known characteristic is its double-walled construction. A hot cup of tea stays hot, and you can hold the cup comfortably.” Workshops offered by the Kondos are a wonderful opportu-nity to learn from a duo whose entries always perform well in competitive shows.Another centuries-old craft tradition can be found in Iwaki, in the countryside of Tono: beautiful washi papers made of the durable bast fibers of the paper-mulberry plant. Unlike papers made from pulp, strong and resilient washi papers can last well over 1,000 years. What’s more, the paper-mulberry plants can be grown and harvested sustain-ably within the span of a single year. At the Tono Washi Studio, you can try your own hand Daruma dolls—popular symbols of good luck and perse-verance in Japan—happen to be a main product of the town of Futaba. Women in the agricultural cooperative paint them by hand. What’s notable about Futaba’s daruma figures is that they come in a range of seven colors, each meant to grant a different kind of wish: gold for prosperity, pink for romance, and so on. The town’s Daruma Market held each January draws crowds of people who come to buy these and to see a giant daruma paraded through the streets. Residents of Okuma were temporarily evacuated to 1 A vase by Manabu Kondo depicts sparkling snow crystals in a wintry woodland scene.2 Lampshades created using hand-made Tono washi paper.3 Lustrous Tono washi is soft to the touch.4 Finely sculpted sake flasks by Takashi Kondo enjoy high acclaim.5 Horses adorn this double-walled Oborisoma tea set rendered in a more traditional style.6 Son Takashi and father Manabu Kondo stand before their new kiln.7 Artisan Shota Takashima at the papermaking vat in the Tono Washi Studio.8 The broad fields and rolling hills of rural Tono.9 The Futaba Daruma Market is held each January.10 Each Futaba daruma doll is paint-ed by hand.11 Emi Ishida is one of the town’s daruma doll painters.12 Colorful roly-poly toys created in the image of Ochan, one of the fish-and fruit-loving town mascots of Okuma.Tokichiro Kiln & Oborisoma WareThis kiln for Oborisoma ware is run by father-and-son potters Manabu and Takashi Kondo, who relocated their studio to Iwaki from Namie. Their gallery exhibits works in both traditional and contemporary styles. Tono Washi PapersHandcrafted papers have been made in Iwaki’s Tono district for more than 400 years. Apply at the town hall for a hands-on lesson in the art.Futaba Daruma MarketHeld every year in early January, the Futaba Daruma Market offers the only opportunity to buy these lucky charms painted in seven different colors. Since the 2011 disasters, they’ve become totems of the town’s ongoing revitalization.Ochan-Koboshi of OkumaJust like weebles that “wobble but don’t fall down,” these Okuma roly-poly toys keep getting back up. Painted after Ochan, one of the town’s three bear mascots, they symbolize residents’ desire to remain strong amid adversity. They are not available for purchase.©Futaba Tourist AssociationIn Art, the Resilience to Carry On9Handicraft Revivals
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