WHERE LIGHT AND WIND ABOUND -Journey into Hote-
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1 2 4 51 The “Chef’s Recommendation” seafood bowl at Tonogami in the Iwaki Lalamew complex.2, 3 Banya at Iwaki Lalamew is a barbecue outlet where you can grill as many of their fresh offer-ings as you like.4 Namie yakisoba noodles, hot off the grill at Sendan-tei, satisfy with generous slices of pork to match the thick-cut noodles.5 Sendan-tei proprietor Takanori Asami sees Fukushima’s recov-ery in each serving he makes of this local favorite.6 The colorful “Fishermen’s Makanai” at Quasetto is just the kind of meal that a ship’s crew might have at sea.7 The “Kuyo” bowl, also at Quasetto, is based on the Soma clan’s crest of eight circles sur-rounding a single large orb.8 Sea urchin hot off the grill—what seafood lover could resist?9 Hamanoeki Matsukawaura promotes the area’s recovery through its sales of fresh seafood and other marine products.8 9 3 67 One can feast on premium Hamadori seafood at a high-end Japanese restaurant, or while spending a night at a traditional inn. But having a meal at an everyday shokudo eatery right in Hamadori close by the ports is just as much a memorable experience. These places are alive with energy, and the menus are naturally all about the daily catch.First on your list of things to try should be kaisen-don. This is the fresh seafood version of the donburi, a one-dish meal in which a deep bowl of rice can be topped with just about any savory thing. The joy of a kaisendon is sampling all kinds of seafood in one hearty serving.Iwaki Lalamew at Onahama Port is a one-stop attraction for eating, buying, and learning about seafood. Browsing around the different shops on the first floor is fun, and there are a half dozen or so different eateries to choose from. For kaisen-don, head to Tonogami restaurant for the “Chef’s Recommendation.” This seafood bowl comes with 12 different toppings, among them sashimi, steamed shrimp, sweetly seasoned conger eel, and a Japanese-style omelet.The Hamanoeki Matsukawaura emporium in Soma is popular among visitors and residents alike. They come for the fresh seafood, of course, but also for farm produce and locally made goods. In the build-ing is Quasetto, an eatery whose “Kuyo” kaisendon lets you savor Joban-mono at its best. A bowl of rice topped with a generous amount of salmon roe arrives with eight different kinds of sashimi, each prepared from the catch at local Soma ports. On one day in July, the selection was fresh-caught tuna, snow crab, surf clams, largehead hairtail, scal-lops, Japanese Spanish mackerel, a rare higoromo prawn caught only in crabbing season, and black-throat sea perch. Depending on the time of year, one or more of the eight offerings may not be from a Soma port, but still, the Kuyo bowl is always a show-case of premium Joban-mono seafood. 12Casual Favorites from Seafood Bowls to Yakisoba NoodlesShokudo Food Adventures

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