678 14 52 31 The signature craft sake Hanauta Drops by the haccoba brewery has a soft pink blush and a pleasing sweet-and-sour taste.2 A half dozen of the beverages haccoba has created with different collaborators. 3 Mizuki Sato is brand director at haccoba.4 The aromatic Kibokyo and the sweet, non-alcoholic amazake paired together make a stylish gift.5 Shubun Endo tending vines at Tomioka Wine Domaine, with the sea stretching beyond.6 Katsumi Endo of the Kawauchi Winery. The new winery building can be seen in the background. 7 Kawauchi Winery staff at work in the vineyard.8 The Village series (at left) is made from Kawauchi-grown grapes.haccoba Craft Sake BreweryEnjoy haccoba labels by the glass at the haccoba brewpub, open by res-ervation only on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Bottles are available for purchase when in stock. KibokyoKibokyo is a fragrant junmai ginjo brewed in Aizuwakamatsu using rice grown in Okuma. It is sold at the municipal revitalization center in Okuma, among other places.Kawauchi WineryThe Chardonnay and Rourange labels from the Village series, and the Müller Thurgau & Kerner from the Libel collection, are available for sale at the winery.Tomioka Wine DomaineThe wines are not yet ready, but vini-fication trials have shown promising results, and expectations are high.Seaside Gastronomyin Minamisoma. Their motto, “Emancipated brew-ing,” alludes to the fact that, in centuries past, people throughout the Tohoku region made their own home brew—an unfiltered, low-alcohol, sweeter kind of sake known as doburoku. When the licensing system was introduced in the Meiji era (1868–1912), however, home brewing was banned. Haccoba’s aim is to revive inter-est in the creative fun of original sake making. Their pale pink brew, for example, is made by adding hops to the fermentation process. The sweetness of the rice and the bitterness of the hops harmonize well, yielding a pleasantly fruity taste.Wherever you go in Japan, you’ll find sake breweries. Some may have been established hundreds of years ago, while others are up and coming. In Fukushima, a growing movement has seen the emergence of new sake brewers—and winemakers, too—across the Hamadori area.One such place is a haccoba, a craft sake brewery “What sets us apart from most sake producers,” says brand director Mizuki Sato, “is that we collabo-rate with other companies to make sake with novel aromas and flavors.” Like the ideas that inspire them, the flavors are unique, such as sake made with cacao, or with the lees from winemaking.Backed by the municipality’s desire to establish a new industry after 2011, the Kawauchi Winery in Kawauchi began its business with a search for land suitable for growing grapes. Grape cultivation—and winemaking, for that matter—were uncharted territo-ry for villagers, but in 2016 they began tending their first grapevines in greenhouses used for starting rice seedlings. A company was set up the following year, with the village as the main shareholder.and has the sunniest aspect out of all the potential sites we looked at,” manager Katsumi Endo says. “It was pastureland before, and we have since built up and conditioned the soil.” The winery’s philosophy? “Winemaking loved by the community.”with support from the government and local volun-teers, the first shipments of wine were made in 2022. The fresh acidity and aroma of the Chardonnay seem to reflect the sweeping landscape of mountains beyond the vineyards.“The land here is 750 meters above sea level Grapevines were planted; a winery was built; and Tomioka Wine Domaine in the town of Tomioka is gearing up to produce its wine locally. Director Shubun Endo has been in the business since 2016. Initially, he outsourced the winemaking part of the process, but plans are now underway to establish a new winery in the sole storehouse that was left on his property after the tsunami washed away his home. It won’t be long before his vineyards are a familiar part of the scenery around Tomioka Station.Kibokyo (“longing for home”) is a sake brewed in Aizuwakamatsu from rice grown in the town of Okuma. It is an aromatic junmai ginjo, made from highly polished rice and pure water, without added alcohol. After the 2011 disasters, Okuma was forced to relocate its town office temporarily to Aizuwakamatsu. The sake is thus a dual symbol of the love Okuma res-idents have for their hometown and their gratitude to Aizuwakamatsu.New Hubs for Sake Connoisseurs15Crafting Original Sake
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